Nagarekawa is Hiroshima’s answer to Osaka‘s Dotonbori. Once a vibrant centre for artists and writers, it has now transformed into a party district, boasting hundreds of bars and eateries, along with plenty of backstreet action, including pachinko parlours and adult entertainment venues.
This maze of narrow streets contains what could be the highest concentration of drinking and dining establishments on Earth. There are thousands of options, ranging from hole-in-the-wall vending machine cafés to high-tech, bass-thumping nightclubs that keep the party going until the early hours. Some of the nightclubs are quite famous, including Smappers, Jamaica, Mac Bar, and Twisters, all of which have become institutions for a good time in Hiroshima.
Competition in the area is so fierce that many venues open, close, and reopen under new names and ownership. It’s nearly impossible to keep up with the constant changes.
The best way to navigate the area is on foot, and the best way to experience it—both the best and worst parts—is to get lost. The area is relatively safe; while there are spruikers outside many of the red-light venues, visitors should not feel threatened. Just smile and keep walking, you never know what might be around the next corner. One piece of advice: if you see something you like, whether it’s a drink, a bite to eat, or a souvenir, buy it when you see it. As you’ll likely never find your way back to the same spot, no matter how hard you try.
No visit to Nagarekawa is complete without sampling Okonomiyaki. This savoury pancake, often called Japanese pizza, is packed with vegetables and sometimes seafood or meat. It’s topped with a gravy-like okonomiyaki sauce and a dash of mayonnaise, making it a cheap, tasty, and hearty meal. There are plenty of street stands offering this dish, and many cafés also have it on their menus.
The area offers more than just nightlife. The Mitaki Temple, located in the cherry tree-lined Central Park, provides a magnificent photo opportunity.
Another interesting landmark is the City Museum of Contemporary Art. The building won 5th prize at the World Festival of Architecture and is well worth a look. Its extensive collection of artwork also makes it worth a visit.
To reach Nagarekawa, you can take the Hiroden Streetcar (Hiroshima Electric Railway). Hop on the #1, #2 or #6 streetcar and get off at the Ebisucho stop (M6), then walk south a few blocks on Nagarekawa Dori.
